Thursday, November 26, 2009

Alpha Omega...Cay

For those of you with a few minutes to burn, here are some fun facts about my life in Turkiye:

1.Cay, or Turkish tea, is becoming an integral part of my life. I love the uniquely-shaped glass cups and the sugar cubes almost as much as the drink itself. Also, even more amazing, although not authentically Turkish- “elma cay”, or apple tea. This drink is purely touristy and sometimes incorrectly made red with a mere tea bag, but at one kebab restaurant the elma cay was the perfect chemical lab lime-green and it was deliciously sweet and hot. I strongly recommend it.

2.Turkish coffee (kahve) should not be confused with American coffee, nor drank in the same way. It comes in a small round teacup and although slightly earthy-tasting is actually pretty good. However, the bottom third is pure silt-you may think you can get one more sip of coffee without the thick sludge at the bottom, but don't do it! However, the sludge is good for getting your fortune told. Apparently, every Turkish mother knows how to do this. (Instructions at bottom for those interested)

3.Koc University. Unlike a few exchange students, I do like Koc University, although I wish it were closer to downtown Istanbul, or even less than 15 minutes by bus to the nearest town. It usually takes little over an hour, sometimes two during bad traffic, to get to Taksim, the center of Istanbul. The trip isn't too bad if you go with friends, but it's not overly enjoyable if you are in a hot, crowded dolmus (mini-bus), especially if you have bags and are forced to stand. To boil it down, my main three problems with Koc are:
1.Location
2.Quality of the classes
3.The food gets a little blah after awhile and generally isn't the healthiest.
4.The campus is very Americanized, which is good in some senses, but I feel like I might have missed out on aspects of Turkish culture.

4.When taking a dolmus down to Sariyer, the nearest town, we get to experience another side of Turkey. Between packs of dogs and cows wandering without constraint in the nearby brush and sometimes on the road in front of the dolmus, it's always interesting. Since we are going down a mountain/hill (what is the difference between those two?), we also get a lovely view of the Bosphorus and the ships on it, offset by the city-covered and mosque-dotted hills in the background.

Halfway down our hill, we make several stops in the insanely large apartment district. This area could be a town itself and probably houses thousands. There are maybe ten districts, each with many tall apartment complexes. The apartment district contains everything from a dry-cleaner to a hookah restaurant to a school to a farmer's market (pazar). Although there are a few Koc students there, I am very curious about where the rest of the people work because I can't imagine that Sariyer is big enough to employ all of them.

5.The ferry is my favorite form of transportation in Turkey. Each trip the ferry is followed by a large flock of seagulls, and by large I mean a hundred or so, that eagerly wait for scraps to be thrown off the back and sometimes catch the food in their mouths. Last time the majority of the birds suddenly disappeared and we have a theory that they have large nets at the front of the ferry and then make kebabs out of them. ;)

6.I have become a hitchhiker. (Keep reading before you get too worried, parents) Because the dolmus takes so long too leave and to make its way down the mountain, we sometimes hitch rides from Koc down to Sariyer. It's safe because they are all Koc students and it's a good way to meet people and practice my Turkish, as well as get a quick and free ride. Also, I can now say I have hitchhiked, although I don't think I'll ever reach the level of hitchhiking as one student I heard about who hitched his way from Romania to Turkey in a Snickers truck!

Monday, November 16, 2009

A Castle, a Horse, and a Green Mosque that is Blue




Hello Fans! I've been negligent in my posting, so I have a lot to catch you up on...I will start with my trip a month ago to Troy, Gallipoli, Cannakale and Bursa.
Yes, the legendary Troy is
in fact in Turkey, or at least the place we went
t
o is believed to be Troy. After entering the gates we were greeted by a large, wooden horse that was clearly made in the last few decades, but
we had fun going up in it and
getting our pictures taken. The ruins weren't overly impressive, mainly because we spent
a couple of hours
listening to a dry description of
the excavation work and the seven layers of civilization at Troy. It wa
s interesting to be at such a legendary place, though, and there were several pillars and blocks
of marble with Greek writing on them that added to the atmosphere.

My favorite part of that whole trip was visiting the castle (kale in Turkish) at Eceabat (See above photos). The staircases went all the way up to the top of the walls, but there weren't any railings or way to stop you from falling, so we were strongly recommended not to climb them. Of course, we couldn't resist climbing half-way at least. There were also cool passageways and in the above photo where I
am standing in the doorway I had to climb up through a dark, narrow passage with the use of my cell phone light and my (non-existant) sense of balance.
I'
m not sure what that room was, but it was really surprising to enter the simple-looking stone door and be presented with the archways and broken beams peppering the walls that went up about fifty feet to the ceiling.





We also visited the World War I memorial site at
Gallipoli. At the top of a
mountain overlooking the Bosphorus, t
here was a huge stone monument (see picture), clear grave markers, and several other iron and stone monuments. Ataturk, who was the leader of the Turkish
fight to regain their lands after WW1, was highly featured, of course. I'll talk about Ataturk later, but he is revered in Turkey to the
extent that during the Turkish Republic holiday, banners of him are EVERYwhere and range from a string of fifty photos to a three-story banner hanging from a building.
We went to visit the trenches, which
have caved in a bit but are still several feet deep, and our tour guide told us the story of how
the attacking forces were coming (I think the Italians?) and
the Turkish troops needed to hold the position until more
troops came, so A
taturk told his men, "I am not giving you an order to attack, I am ordering you to die!" Ataturk himself didn't die because although he was shot by a bullet, something averted
it-I think it was an eye-glass or something. (Those are cannonballs on the right)

We stayed at a hostel in Cannakale, which introduced me to the concept of shower-bathrooms which are the lovely rooms that contain a shower-head right in front of the sink, so that sometimes when the sink is turned on, the water comes out on your head instead of on your hands. I was also able to experience the shower-head falling off onto my head during my shower.
Despite those problems, though, the hostel was pretty nice with a traditional Turkish breakfast and a (not-so traditional?) small fish pond cut into the stone floor in the center of the breakfast
room. At a Cannakale restaurant we also read about "cigarette pie" on the menu- none of us were brave enough to buy it, but we later discovered it's a pastry that's only shaped like a
cigarette and it doesn't actually taste like one (it's not supposed to, anyways).

We also visited Bursa and visited the Green Mosque (Yesil Cami), which is actually blue on the outside but some of the tile work was green inside. We didn't have to wear headscarves in there, but when we went to Ulu Cami, the Great/Holy Mosque, everyone had to
remove their shoes and the girls had to cover their hair. Inside Ulu Cami the floor was completely carpeted and there
were ornate chandeliers, reliefs, wall designs. There was even a stone fountain in the center (see below). The picture with the blue floor and the Sultan's coffin is the Green Mosque and the others are from Ulu Cami. I apologize if the formatting of this blog is a little weird, but I've been having difficulties with the pictures and I have another exam to study for, so until next time Gule Gule! (Goodbye in Turkish)